Samo malo or još malo, Serbian for “just a bit”. I hear it many times here in Serbia and it seems after a year I slowly started to accept it finally: in same cases quicker then in other cases. The case where it still ask a lot of my patience is in the bus: when I am in a full bus (not happen very often, but it does) then there is always somebody behind you who want to step in and says ” samo malo” or još malo . Samo malo where ? I can barely breathe or move and you just want “samo malo”? It are always ladies who are a bit more older, no clue way, but ok.
It is just a cultural clash and actually (yes sorry dear fellow bus passengers in Belgrade) now I get the clue: in Serbia nobody is left behind, just “samo malo” , hold your breathe, hold in your belly, make space and don’t complain. So I stopped complaining.
The case when I never complain is when the host you are visiting ask you do if you want another rakija : ” samo malo” ……
It is almost a year that I live now in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia.
A lot of positive things happened in my life and I am grateful that I am living here in Serbia together with my wife. After a year I can conclude that I found pretty much my place here. If you emigrate to a foreign country it can turn in a disappointment, it is like to go into a tunnel, but actually only beautiful things I discovered after the tunnel. Serbia is not always so positive in the news, especially not in my former home country the Netherlands: last month for example around the commemoration in Srebrenica (I wonder why the international community did also not commemorate the +/-3500 Serbian victims there). Before it was about Vojislav Šešelj who was temporarily released and all the scars were opened again. Against all those negative things from the post I want to voice something positive about the country I am living now:
I can tell you that I am proud to live here, because Serbia is an amazing country with super friendly people. Therefore I am dedicating this blog post to the ordinary Serbs which I meet in the bus , on the street, at the kiosk, in the restaurant, in the supermarket, the local shop or anywhere else, I just want to say to you all: Thank you for your patience and thank you for feeling me welcome. First of all, my wife, but also of course my family in law, my friends and my colleagues are all very helpful and welcome and I am blessed with that, BUT the people which I do not know directly are also like that and that is why it is more than worth living in this country.
So hvala, bus-driver for waiting for me when I run for your bus, hvala dear Goka when you serve me food for my lunch, hvala Milenko from the exchange-office for chatting with me every morning (da ‘jebem ti oblak’ will be soon standard Serbian), hvala shop owner who ask every time for confirmation if I am truly from the Netherlands (yes I am, I am not from Mars) and hvala kafana owner for changing the TV channel with a smile from tennis to the ‘Tour de France’ (how to make friends in the kafana in Serbia 😉 ). You make me all ever day smile so I write to you: Hvala Srbijo!
As I live now in Serbia I also have more time to make more panorama pictures here. It is a hobby of me and now I just updated my page with those pictures which you can visit here: Panorama pictures Srbija / Serbia . I would say enjoy and if you want to have the original you can contact me of course! Also panorama pictures from other countries are available.
On 28th of June, Vidovdan in Serbia, a statue was unveiled for Gavrilo Princip in Belgrade, Serbia. It was a gift from Republika Srpska, which is the Serb entity in Bosnia-Herzegovina.
Monument Gavrilo Princip in Finansijski park, Belgrade-Serbia
101 years ago he killed, on that day, the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand who visited Sarajevo. Many believe that this was the first shot of the First World War. Actually it is not true, because this was just an excuse for a war on Serbia which was already planned before.
The first shots were actually fired on the 28th of July when the Austrian-Hungarian army started shelling Kalemegdan , the fortress in Belgrade, without a declaration of war. Was Gavrilo a hero, a freedom fighter or a terrorist?
That same question is asked in a recently published book, written in Dutch, with the title “Wat kwam eruit het schot?” (==What came out of the shot) from Jelica Novakovic and Sven Peeters, ISBN 9789460013461. (more information on Balkanboeken). I got it from Jelica and read it and I have to admit it is a very nice book , easy to read and written in an entertaining style.
In the preface, the authors thanks us also, as team secanje.nl for our efforts to research the story about the Serbian WWI soldiers who died in the Netherlands.
Back to Gavrilo’s statue in Belgrade. I wonder why the statue was not placed on Kalemegdan, the beautiful fortress here in Belgrade. His statue is standing now in Finansijski park, between buildings and he is standing lonely there, just as lonely as he died on the 28th of April 1918 in Theresienstadt (nowadays in the Czech Republic).
A railway station is place to meet and a place to say farewell. Two years ago I met you at Belgrade railway station and now it is time to go for you and your family. You write many bites and also one for me, but this is my bite for you. Metaphorically seen you waited for me at the station and now I see you leaving while I am staying with now my wife. Keep on writing and I will keep on biting in Serbia, one day I hope we can have again “blejanje”* time.
Dutch people like to complain , Serbian people as well, but they complain less I have to admit. I try to do the best for Serbia as much as I can, because I love my (soon to be) wife who is a Serb and her country (where I live) and its people. So I love Serbia and I am really glad I am living here, a dream came true for me.
BUT, I am Dutch, so I complain still now and then, so here it goes….
For our research about Serbian WWI soldiers who died in the Netherlands (more info on www.secanje.nl) I want to know if there are WWI monuments in the places where those soldiers came from (see our Google maps here). Last weekend we went to Đerdap National Park, which is truly beautiful. I wanted to know if there is a WWI monument in Golubac (which is on the route to Đerdap) so I wrote the Tourist Organisation of Golubac (www.togolubac.rs) on 24/04/2015 with the question if they have such monument and where it is. My aim is to visit such monuments in the places where those soldiers came from so to honor those forgotten Serbian WWI heroes who died in my country far away.
I wrote the email in (my bad) Serbian and I am still waiting a reply… I sent a friendly reminder on 02/05/2015, but still no reply. Then I became impatient and sent a mail to the “Opština” (=Community) of Golubac on 05/05/2015 (www.golubac.org.rs) and again I am still waiting a reply…. When I sent a Twitter message to the National Tourist Organisation of Serbia a day later I became hopeful: they tweeted me back: for sure you will get a reply, but I am still waiting.
Serbia needs tourism (especially the beautiful area around Golubac), Serbia needs investments, but with this attitude not a lot of progress will be made. My advice to you: reply within 24 hours, because foreigners will loose quickly attention. If you do your work properly it will be much more appreciated and you will earn even money. A positive example was our host in Donji Milanovac who had everything perfectly arranged with all the papers and everything (chapeau!): so it is possible!
This is not a story about me or my stupid complaints, no in contrary.
This is about Bogdan Lazić (info here) and Velizar Vuković (info here) two Serbian WWI soldiers who died both on the 21st January 1919 in Apeldoorn -the Netherlands- and who both were from Golubac. Is anybody going to reply me so I can pay respect to them? If they will reply me and come with helpful answers I promise I will write a praising post about them all, let’s hope soon I can write that post….
Update 23h57 : got a Twitter message from @serbiatourism so that sounds promising My cheers to you already!
The National Park Đerdap, where I was this weekend is a beautiful area. It is situated on the bank of the Danube , which forms the border with Romania. The Iron Gate is situated here, it is the smallest point of the Danube river and the gorge formed by this mighty river is impressive.
The region is truly beautiful: it has historic and cultural monuments, the nature is outstanding. The Roman Limes were here for example, but before (+/- 6000 years before) a settlement was already here (Lepenski Vir). Now it is the border between (EU-) Romania and Serbia and in the middle the mighty Danube flows as always towards the Black Sea.
Golubac Fortress, 14th centuary
The Iron Gate, with left Romania and right Serbia. This is the smallest point of the Danube.
Serbian border pole: the border with Romania is in the middle of the Danube river.
Lepenski Vir (Лепенски Вир) is an important Mesolithic archaeological site : the latest data suggest 9500-7200 B.C. to be the start.
The first actual shots of the war were fired just after 1am on 29 July when Austro-Hungarian naval vessels on the river Sava opened fire on the Serbian sappers who had blown up the bridge and on Belgrade itself. Remarkably, the gunboat, the Bodrog, from which the first shots were fired still survives today, largely forgotten, moored at the side of the river Danube in Belgrade (Source: Independent.co.uk).
Today I saw this ship and indeed it is totally forgotten, you can see the picture below which I took. Serbia suffered a lot during the First World War and paid a very high price (see our website www.secanje.nl for example) , it is unbelievable that this ship is now in this state on the bank of the Danube near Ada Huja.
The ship hundred years ago:
The ship now, on the bank of the Danube on Ada Huja:
26/04/2015, Beograd (Serbia) : Bodrog, the Austrian-Hungarian ship which fired the first shot of WWI
Today is the book launch of a friend of us, Yvo Kühling, a Dutchmen who lives like me in Serbia. The book is called ” Serbia bites” and some pictures of me are in it and even a text about me. It is not about that, it is about the place where the book launch is: it is in Kafana ” Suri” at Belgrade’s main railway station.
As you know maybe I am a fan of railways, but it is not even about that: no I remember this place with nostalgia, because this is the place where I made my first steps in Belgrade on the 28th August 2008.
In the early evening I arrived ( I think even around 19h00) with the train on platform 1 from Zagreb. Naive as I was with my backpack I walked out of the station into the white city. What I then did not know is that 7 years later I would live in this city with my future wife. Belgrade is a great city and Serbia a great country with friendly people. Back then my ” Balkan” odyssey started not knowing where it would end….
This evening I will enjoy the book presentation of Yvo (good luck Yvo!) with my future wife, but I also think about that beautiful moment 7 years ago when I made my first steps into Belgrade here…